Camp 2 seems like a mirage throughout the walk, never getting closer. This is where almost every climber swaps oxygen bottles for a fresh one and also time for a food and water break. Some climbers report various degrees of vertigo and being uneasy with soft edges on the boot tracks. The South Summit is the first time climbers can clearly see the final route to the true summit and probably the first time climbers think they will actually summit.
South Summit on the right. Everest South Col Route Maps. This is only for about 100 - 300 feet depending on the route that year but it takes concentration. There have been several other famous routes on Everest South Col, including the Bonington Route which was first climbed by Chris Bonington in 1975. 29,035 feet 8,850 m. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed it three other times (all from Nepal) - 2002, 2003 and 2008 each time reaching just below the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters) before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. "one of the world's most respected chronicler of Everest" - Outside Magazine: Everest Northeast Ridge aka North Col Route ... (5,164 members and 5,107 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,790 different people. In the photo above, there are TWO "level spots" visible: One lower on the SE ridge, also wider and rounder, further to the right. There is still twice as much to climb at the top of this photo. The Nepal side has 194 deaths or 2.9%, a rate of 1.23.
On the other side was the route from the north side, Tibet. This page details the South Col route from Nepal. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest. Climbers leave the Balcony on a somewhat gentle grade but it quickly increases to 30 degrees but still on a snow packed boot path in high traffic years. 8,041 out of the total 8,306 summits followed the same basic route that was pioneered in 1953 by John Hunt’s British expedition to the summit using the Southeast Ridge-South Col and Shi Zhang 1960’s summit via the Northeast Ridge-North Col. They had loads that made climbers feel like a wimp. Of the 8000 meter peaks, Everest has the highest absolute number of deaths at 304 but ranks near the bottom with a death rate of 1.17. Since 1950 (when Tibet was closed), most Everest expeditions have left from Nepal and gone via the southeast ridge and the South Col (instead of via the North Col). Each rope is about 200' long so climbers must unclip their carabineers and jumars at the junctions. I have now been through the Icefall about 40 times. It goes through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm (pronounced "coom"), up the Lhotse Face and past the South Col and Hillary Step to the summit.  The following year, when Mount Everest was first climbed, Wilfrid Noyce and the Sherpa Annullu were the first climbers on the expedition to reach the col. The North Ridge Route is the second-most popular route. From Camp 3, on the way to the summit, climbers must cross the yellow band and the Geneva Spur on the way to the South Col. The route seems to go up forever and climbers think climbers are never going to get to the Balcony. The Himalayan Database reports that through August 2020 there have been 10,271 summits (5,164 members and 5,107 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,790 different people. In 2014 an ice serac released off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall killing 16 Sherpas - the worst single incident tragedy in the history of Everest on either side. Everest Base Camp is on the lower left with the initial route up the ice fall as seen from Kala Patar. Clear weather and low winds are critical factors in deciding whether to make a summit attempt. My mom, Ida, and two of my aunts, died from Alzheimer's. Everest is the highest peak in back, the one in front is Everest's West Shoulder. Please note that all content on this site is a result of significant time and money and as such all images, videos, dispatches, essays and stories are original work and property of Alan Arnette unless otherwise noted. They leave snow and climb on smooth rocks at a 20 to 30 degree angle. See more ideas about Everest, Route map, Mount everest. Himalaya - Nepal
I attempted Lhotse twice - 2015 and 2016. Jan 13, 2018 - Explore Annie Johnston's board "Everest Route Map" on Pinterest. The walk to C1 has a gradual gain but climbers will still be breathing hard. Again, not difficult but somewhat challenging given the circumstances. Click to enlarge it and you can easily see climbers along the slabs. Everest The South Col Route (nepalese way). This is actually on the Geneva Spur. The climb is tricky all the way down to the Balcony ' the final ridge before the wall back down to camp 4 and the South Col. Anywhere from half to a full hour later, the sight of yellow, red or green tents on the pure white snow come into view. The top causes of death are from avalanche (77), fall (71), altitude sickness (36) and exposure (26). Climbers start before sunrise to minimize the movement of the glacier heating up with sunrise and mid-day heat. 3-6 hours, 1.64 miles one way. This extraordinary amount can be greatly contributed to the geology of this specific route as well as other features such as rock fall, exposure, avalanches and icefall. The route was a shock to me in that it was still very steep and seemed much more than 500' gain. Normally it is 8 to 12 hours depending how long the climb from Camp 3 took. At that time the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of 1952. The lite cloud (plume) is normal and shows some winds but still marginally climbable. Narrative
The Icefall is ever-changing and ever-moving. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of
The final section was another surprise for me. So it is not far and not that high but ... it is hot, very hot if they travel in mid day. It looks easy but they are tired. 2016 - 2018 were relatively normal with no major events. Let's take a look at the climb above C3 and onto the South Col. Maps of Everest Routes and Deaths. The reduction in deaths is primarily due to better gear, weather forecasting and more people climbing with commercial operations. First as an acclimatization climb and then on the way to the summit. ... 1988 - An international team climbs the Neverest Buttress to the South Col. Brit Stephen Venables follows the SE Ridge route to the summit without using oxygen. As we got ready to leave for the summit, they checked our crampons for tightness, that our harnesses were doubled-backed and that our oxygen was set properly with the regulators. The final few hundred feet into Camp 3 are difficult for almost everyone. Instinctively climbers lower their shoulders and raise their arms over their head. Treks to EBC (17,200’) are common so I will not cover this segment in much detail other than to say it should take about 7 to 10 days in order to begin the acclimatization process and most people stay in teahouses and take their meals there. Climbers continue gaining altitude over some rolling bumps and soon see the Hillary Step. The Khumbu Icefall is located at the head of the Khumbu Glacier and the foot of the Western Cwm, which lies at an altitude of 5,486 metres (17,999 ft) on the Nepali slopes of Mount Everest, not far above Base Camp and southwest of the summit. Next is a knife-edge ridge, the Cornice-Traverse leads to the Hillary Step. Sometimes it is a 60 degree climb, others a more gentle 20 degree. It is difficult enough to have killed many climbers in horrible falls and deep crevasses. In my four times climbing Everest, it was different each time and during the climbs themselves. The angle can be very steep especially just above the base or the bergschrund and again near the top most camps. aka South Col
Reaching the Balcony at 27,500 feet, climbers turn West up the ridge to the South Summit, over the Hillary Step onto the Summit Ridge and then ... the summit. Everest is the tallest mountain in the world. Everest South Col Route Maps Alan Arnette is a climber coach, mountaineer, professional speaker, and Alzheimer's advocate. Summit route as seen from Camp 4, the South Col. Climbers worry that their oxygen may run out as climbers get stuck in a line or are going slowly. Climbers passing climbers. Mt. Climbers must be clipped into the fixed line at all times - even while at Camp 3. There were 11 deaths. • Everest 2005 • Everest 2004 Route Maps • South Col • North Ridge Popular Everest Posts • The cost to Climb Everest • Everest by the Numbers • Comparing the Routes • Bodies on Everest • What is Wrong with Everest? The route. Respect for these special people grow not because of their strength but because of their completeness. Everest’s position in Tibet and Nepal Map The north EBC situates at an altitude of 5200m (17,056ft) in Tibet while the south EBC at 5364m(17,597ft) in Nepal. At 6:30 a.m. on May 28, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay set out from a camp high above the South Col on the Southwest Face of Mount Everest and began the ascent for which both would become famous. On one side it is 8,000 ft down the southwest face and on the other, the Kangshung face, a 11,000 ft drop. The last half hour is the most mentally challenging. . It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. The fixed line becomes a bit cumbersome and requires careful manipulation of their carabineer and jumar in heavy gloves at each anchor. . However, this changes when climbers hit the slabs, a long section of smooth to jumbled rock, perhaps 200' in total. It was a great moment for them both, and it was shared by all of us who watched it. The summit is the highest point in this picture. 48 died not using Os. Images … Everest at 5:00AM on May 21, 2011 with Kami Sherpa of International Mountain Guides (IMG). ... of the usual South East Ridge route from the South Col. The Nepalese side has seen 6,552 summits with 195 deaths through December 2019 or 2.9%, a rate of 1.23. 122 died not using Os. The picture below was taken by Brad Jackson in 2009. But also a large part of the Cwm unfolds in front of climbers. 1,343 people, including 941 Sherpa, have summited multiple times. It is a bit of a shock in that it is relatively high, about 50' of jutting rock. The fixed ropes are a huge asset here. Even the wall after the Balcony is dangerous if unroped. Everest was first summited by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary with a British expedition in 1953. 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles one way, Summit Ridge. Most climbers will take 9 to 18 hours for the round trip climb from the South Col. My total time was 11 hours as follows: That's about it. Mt. There have been 702 summits by women. See more pictures of the South Col and above. www.alanarnette.com is provided for informational purposes only and not to be used for advice except through Summit Coach services. AND deserving of all the mystique and attraction. I had expected a long snow slope with the summit visible from just above the Hillary Step but there were more small hills, really bumps that blocked the view and continued to demand a physical effort on top of the altitude requirements. Depending on the weather, the Face is usually rock hard blue ice. It is about 1.74 miles from Camp 1 to Camp 2 with an altitude gain of 1,500'. About 62% of all expeditions put at least one member on the summit. Standard Routes. After a few weeks, the path is fairly well set due to the thousands of kicks into the ice but one storm can have climbers starting all over again. In 2005, Didier Delsalle of France landed a Eurocopter AS350 B3 helicopter on the South Col. Two days later he made the first helicopter landing on the summit of Mount Everest, a feat he subsequently repeated. Next climbers reach a flat section known as the football field. The expansive western flank of Lhotse is called the Lhotse Face and is an unavoidable part of the traditional southeast route up Everest. The steep angle and hard ice make it difficult to get a grip with their crampons. It looms 29,035′ (8,848 meters) above sea level and sits directly on the border of Tibet and Nepal. From all the traffic, there are steps but also the uneven rock allows for good foot placement. ... on Everest. Climbers struggle with their 20lb load and Sherpas scoot by them with their 60 to 100 pound loads. Climbers don't spend long here since the weather is always temporary and the altitude destructive. There are two commonly climbed routes up the mountain, the South Col Route and the Northeast Ridge. The climb from the South Col is some of the steepest, sustained climbing on a South Col route climb until you reach the slabs discussed next. A jam usually occurs in this area if several teams are going for the summit on the same day. Also see the Northeast Ridge route map. This means a 3:00AM wake-up call and a quick breakfast. 3-6 hours, 0.8 miles one way. Photo at right is of the "South Col" climbing route, from Mt. It is also difficult to sleep, and most climbers' digestive systems have significantly slowed or completely stopped. 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles one way
216 climbers summited without supplemental oxygen, about 2.1%. Cho Oyu is the safest with 3,845 summits and 52 deaths or a death rate of 0.55. From 1923 to 1999: 170 people died on Everest with 1,169 summits or 14.5%. Also see the South Col route map. In 2015, the Icefall Doctors took the route more towards Nuptse in hopes that future similar events would not hit climbers. Basically climbers climb the crack. The next stage is the Lhotse Face, Lhotse is the fourth highest peak in the world at 27,920 feet. It is about 1.07 miles from the South Col to the summit and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. Most climbers don't notice all this since they are focused on getting into their tents and having a brew and some food. First it is hot. Usually there is at least a partial moon in mid to late May so climbers can see the surrounding ground plus the nearby mountains including Makalu and Lhotse. It is about 1.07 miles from the South Col to the summit and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. It is critical to have goggles and mittens in these conditions. 621 climbers have summited from both Nepal and Tibet. It is common to hear a loud crash, an avalanche in the Icefall or maybe one of those towering seracs falling. 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles one way. The South Col is typically swept by high winds, leaving it free of significant snow accumulation. You can fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and pass through Namche Bazaar. The next section is the Upper Icefall but it fools climbers because think they see the top of the Icefall before realizing there is more to go. Incredible journey to a unique place. I clipped my jumar and carabineer onto the new ropes and placed my right foot on a small rock ledge, then my left - a classic stem stance. The first section is pretty much a continuous climb that undulates wildly. The Himalayan Database reports that through December 2019 there have been 10,155 summits (5,140 members and 5,015 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,780 different people. If your the camp is at the top of the gully, it can be a very long final half hour. This is the most exposed section of a Southeast Ridge climb. You can see it in the picture above the top climber with the rope ascending above it. The route goes up in angle and once in Camp 2 proper, it can be the steepest walk because the tents are set up along a rising rock gully. People stopping to adjust oxygen or gear. However some considered it slightly easier than the north due to the absence of the ladders and rock climbing on the steep steps of the North Ridge route. But this section is short, maybe 100' and on a wide snow slope. Climbers have to kick their crampon points into the ice stealing precious strength with each step. Headlamps lighting up the way. The Cwm is straightforward but has several dangers. Most climbers will begin using supplemental oxygen here and have a maximum of only two or three days for making summit bids. It can be cold if the wind is blowing so most people throw on a down parka during the break. They were gazing down on the scene of the Swiss drama, and they were also looking upwards to the final pyramid of Everest itself. More people have died in the Icefall than anywhere else on Everest's south side in recent years. While not all of it is visible, climbers can see Nuptse on their right, Lhotse ahead and Everest on their left. Deserving of every harsh word ever written or said. Climbers step over the crevasses on aluminum ladders with crampons on their boots. consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 25 years of high altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. I stayed clipped in and scooted around it given the thousand foot drop-off to the left and the vertical rock wall to the right. According to John Hunt, the expedition leader: It was 2.40 p.m. Wilfrid Noyce and his companion Annullu stood at that moment above the South Col of Everest, at about 26,000 feet [7,900 m].  The weather stations are about 7 feet (2.1 m) tall and weigh 110 pounds (50 kg). Also each Sherpa and many climbers had a radio each. There are usually two or three levels of camps because flat areas are at a premium and Sherpas need a somewhat flat area to carve out tent platforms. Then there are the crevasses. Hi i'm Morris Bria, an Italian Amateur Mountainer. The Everest South Col route in Nepal is famous for being the route traversed by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay when they summited Everest for the first time on May 29th 1953. This is where they take a break, drink some water, slow their breathing and eat something. 304 people (185 westerners and 119 Sherpas) have died on Everest from 1924 to August 2020, about 3.5%. The final section always involves steeper ladders and sharper grades. If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest or even K2, I can help. The Khumbu Ice Fall is a 2,000 foot climb on a moving glacier complete with deep crevasses and towering seracs. Climbers are now in the section known as the Popcorn. But after a few hours, or more, climbers suddenly see the headlamps in front of climbers standing still, if this is not the flat area below the Balcony, it is the Balcony itself and climbers are about there! 1,352 people, including 941 Sherpa, have summited multiple times. The summit bid starts before midnight with a steep climb up the South side of Everest. I found it challenging but not nearly as hard as advertised! Climbers are told to always attach themselves to the rope and be extra careful in this area. Today, hundreds of climbers from around the world use this route to try to stand on top of the world. This can be extremely tiring. Climbers climb the Lhotse face twice during the attempt on the summit. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary. The summit is not big, maybe 30 square feet. Each climber was with their Personal Sherpa. Mount Everest: The Routes. The sun reflects off the walls of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse's snow covered slopes making the temperature rise above 100F degrees. Camp 1 is not visible from the top of the Icefall. The activity was fast paced. It is considered slightly more dangerous than the North Ridge Route due primarily to the instability of the Khumbu Icefall. Map, Facts And Information. All content is protected by copyright laws. Everest is on the North (left), Lhotse is directly ahead and Nuptse is on the right or South. But as soon as the sun hits, and there are no clouds, then it can become horribly hot. The South Col Route starts from the base camp located on the south side of Mt. Base camp (Campamento Base) is located at 17,500 feet. After about a couple of hours they approach the Yellow Band,a strip of limestone that cuts through the Himalayas in this area. This picture was taken from Kala Patar using a 10X optical zoom lens, All rights reserved ©1999-2021 www.alanarnette.com, April 2-10 - Trek to Base Camp (17,500'/5334m), Balcony (with 20 minute break) - South Summit: 2:30 hours, South Summit (with 20 minute break)- top of Hillary Step: 1:00 hour. Everest – South Col Route – 8848m WHY CLIMB EVEREST WITH ADVENTURE PEAKS Pre Expedition Support - We have a dedicated team of experienced staff available seven days per week throughout the year to answer questions and address concerns. However once in their tent, the views are amazing on a clear day! Route from Camp 3 to the South Col. Across the Yellow Band and to the left up the Geneva Spur. Everest from the South Col Save The route follows the shallow gully up and then right to the level spot on the Ridge (The Balcony). The climb through the Triangular Face to the Balcony is long and cold in the dark. 119 climbers have summited more than once in a single season.
It is very normal for a long line of climbers to be going up and another long line coming down - usually Sherpas returning from carrying loads to the higher camps. This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Atop the Ice Fall is Camp 1 serving as a weigh station to the Western Cwm and Camp 2. The South Col Route was taken by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay and is still the route used most frequently. The summit bid starts before midnight with a steep climb up the South side of Everest. More than likely it was off their route since the Icefall Doctors are careful to avoid the sections of the Icefall where most of these crashes happen or are exposed to Everest's West shoulder's hanging seracs. Western Cwm route from Camp 1 (top triangle) to Camp 2 (bottom triangle) as seen from Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. Narrative
We started up the Triangular Face towards the Balcony. This website has reports on his summits of K2, Everest, the 7 Summits plus over 35 major expediitons plus all the Colorado 14ers all with essays, pictures, videos. Recent years have been tragic with 17 Sherpas killed in the Khumbu Icefall by a serac release on April 8, 2014 and 19 people killed on April 25, 2015 at Everest Base Camp from an avalanche triggered off Pumori's ridge by a magnitude 7.8 earthquake almost 200 miles away in Nepal. The terrain starts out fairly steep from C3. The sun is reflected by the snow and ice covered walls of the valley and lightly filtered at this 22,000 foot altitude. However, in 2019 9 people died on the Nepal side, most were avoidable and a result of inexperience of both client and guide. In 2019 there were 878 summits, 216 from Tibet and 662 from Nepal and 3 didn't use supplemental oxygen. click to enlarge map
Photos at top of page are of Everest's peak on clear days. Camp 2 sits on the most Eastern point of Cwm and serves as Advanced Base Camp and a launching pad for the summit. More of the same for another two or three hours. On good snow years, there is usually a well-worn path developed on the route. The audio at 56 seconds in the video is my dispatch from the summit to this website dedicating the summit to all mom's with Alzheimer's. Also this section can create long bottlenecks both going up and descending. There is a tendency to relax their guard but now is not the time. Climbing the Lhotse Face is a big challenge after the Khumbu Ice Fall on the way to the summit. Sitting between Everest and Lhotse at 26,300 feet, it serves as the base for the summit attempt. The Cwm is a 'U' shaped valley carved out by the Khumbu glacier. Next is the climb to C2 in the Western Cwm. A large area of flat hard packed snow. In low snow years, the crampon on rock movement creates slips that robs energy. I repeated basically the same moves to the top pulling on the ropes using my jumar. , In May 2019, the highest weather station in the world was installed at Everest, with one location at the South Col, and another on a place higher up on the peak known as "The Balcony" as well as some other stations and locations.
Route from Camp 2 (lower left triangle) to Camp 3 (upper triangle) up the Lhotse Face, across the yellow band and up the Geneva Spur to the South Col. Climbers must be clipped into the fixed line at all times to avoid falling resulting in injury or death. Climbers can only see a small portion of the Khumbu Ice Fall from this angle. If weather does not cooperate within these short few days, climbers are forced to descend, many all the way back down to Base Camp. Once on the South Col, climbers have entered the death zone; altitude sickness is a significant threat at this elevation and can easily prove fatal. Many climbers are in their full down suits trying to minimize the weight in their packs. After an hour in a "normal" year climbers reach the first ladder. There are usually two ropes, an up and a down, attached to the face with ice screws and anchors. Mt Everest South Col Route Maps. Normally each tent prepares their own food at this camp so it starts to feel like a real climb at last. Climbers still cannot actually see Everest until they go another quarter mile up the Western Cwm, they do have a spectacular view of Pumori and other 7000m hills behind them. This is the first time most climbers start to use bottled oxygen. The summit is the highest point in this picture. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain. Paul s mt everest expedition mt everest south col route maps nimsdai everest mt everest dispatch may 16 2016 procedure for climbing mount everest. There are normally five to 8 ladders in this area along with a fixed rope. see complete disclaimer, C1: 19,500'/5943m - 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles, C2: 21,000'/6400m - 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles, South Col: 26,300'/8016m - 1 hour or less, South Summit : 28500' - 8690m - 3 to 5 hours. The first time climbers are probably already awake with anticipation or just because they are still not used to sleeping at 17.500'. Mt Everest South Col Route Maps. Climbers rarely get a second chance to return to the South Col in a specific expedition. This is because it is more efficient at this altitude for the body to use stored energy sources than to digest new food. These barriers, while not technically difficult, are a challenge at an altitude of 25,000 feet and 6 weeks of expedition life. If the weather is good, there will be no wind and the temps around zero, very comfortable in down suits. Once clear of the Band, it somewhat flattens out until the bottom of the ridge defining the South Col. Layers are important for this section. Everest is our tallest mountain. However, three years skewed the deaths rates with 17 in 2014, 14 in 2015 and 11 in 2019.
35 climbers have traversed from one side to the other. IMG had a large cooking tent where we all gathered and Sherpas boiled water for us. The lines took some time to spread out. It can be extremely cold before the sun moves over Lhotse or if the winds are the least bit strong, it can be miserable. It was on one of these bridges that I fell into a deep crevasse in 2002. Once on the summit, the return climb can be dangerous and has the highest incident rate due to climber's letting their guard down, fatigue or weather conditions that developed during the day. Information on each route is shown below the map. Here we provide you a detailed tourist route map to Everest Base Camp from both sides, namely the north side in Tibet and the South side in Nepal. Narrative
So most leave Camp 1 at 6:00 AM or earlier. In 2011, there were three "Camp 3's" ranging from 23,500 to 24,000'. The South Col route is one to be taken very seriously as unlike most of the routes its fatality rate is far greater with a current total sitting at 17. The face is a steep wall of hard packed ice and snow that holds Camp 3. Approach The South Col route starts at Everest Base Camp (EBC) which is a 30 mile trek from Lukla (9,317’), the nearest airstrip. Using a Buff is mandatory since it warms their breath and helps manage the Khumbu cough. Mt. This area is heavily crevassed and smart teams rope up or always stay clipped into the fixed rope. There have been 772 summits by women members.
It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. South Summit on the right. The South Col is the sharp-edged notch or pass between Mount Everest and Lhotse, the highest and fourth highest mountains in the world, respectively. Everest Nepal South Col Route Programme Description: Introduction: Mount Everest at 8,848 metres / 29,035 feet is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world.The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of …
2020 everest south col route map